Entry Level Model
In 2020 the Oyster Perpetual 39 (reference 114300) was replaced by the “entry-level Rolex” Oyster Perpetual 41 mm (reference 124300) and 36 mm (reference 126000). It is a classic mechanical timepiece that focuses on the essentials: The display of hours, minutes and seconds, so the watch is a perfect combination of form and function. Rolex added some extra flavor to the Oyster Perpetual product line by introducing some jazzy-color dial variants. Especially the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Tiffany with its turquoise dial caught the attention of so many watch lovers – collectors included.
Although many watch nerds thought this was a very untypical move by Rolex, it is actually something we saw from the Geneva watch brand already in the past. In the 1970s Rolex had a small series of so-called Stella dials for its Day-Dates models. At the beginning collectors perceived the Stella dials as wrong to Rolex’s brand DNA, but now these models are the most sought-after vintage Day-Dates. You can learn more about the rare Stella dials in this article (here).
Both references (124300 for 41 mm and 126000 for 36 mm) host the same movement inside their case. It is called caliber 3230 and is a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, launched by the brand in 2020. The automatic manufacture caliber is a superlative chronometer with an accuracy of -2 /+2 seconds per day. It features a 70 hours power reserve when fully wound and is waterproof up to 100 meters. Caliber 3230 also features Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which means its nickel-phosphorus alloy is almost resistant to magnetic fields.
When the updated Oyster Perpetual was released as Rolex novelty of 2020, one color in particular immediately caught the eye – the turquoise dial. It gained instantly the nickname Tiffany dial, as it reminds collectors of the color shade used by the famous jewelry brand Tiffany & Co. For many the playful color is the go-to option for summer watches. And without any doubt, it was the color that influenced the watch industry the most in 2021.
Let’s go back to the dial. Particularly eye-catching is the large, applied and polished Rolex crown at 12 o’clock and the new double indices at 3-6-9 o’clock. As is typical for Rolex, the highly polished indices (just like the simple hands) are not made of “ordinary” stainless steel, rather than 18-carat white gold. Additionally, the hands and indices are filled with Chromalight, which is a luminous material developed especially for Rolex.
Old Bracelet New Technology
Rolex kept it simple with the bracelet and chose to accompany its model with the Oyster steel bracelet along with the well-known Oyster clasp. What’s new is that Rolex has given the 2020 novelty the long overdue quick adjustment system for the steel clasp. It is called Easy Link extension and offers an adjustment option of 5 mm, which is very useful especially during hot summer days.
Price & Collectability
Without any doubt a great watch and best value for money within the Swiss watch brand (if you were lucky to get one for the retail price). The Oyster Perpetual model is an excellent entry into the world of Rolex and a perfect alternative to the very popular Rolex Datejust. Especially, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Tiffany is a watch everyone wants in his collection. Last known retail price was at 5’800 CHF (41 mm) and 5’500 CHF (36 mm) but due to the high demand, the current market price is in excess of 15’000 CHF for each of the variants.
Oyster Perpetual Tiffany (reference 124300 and reference 126000)
Current market price is around CHF 15’000 – 25’000.
No official limitation
Diameter: 41 mm / 36 mm ; height: 11.7 mm
When to wear:
Thanks to its fine and flat case shape even the big 41 mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual Tiffany fits perfectly on almost everyone’s wrist. It looks smaller than other 41mm models of Rolex and is with its colorful turquoise dial the perfect summer watch.
What we love about the watch:
The Oyster Perpetual is a classic mechanical timepiece that focuses on the essentials: The display of hours, minutes and seconds, so the watch is a perfect combination of form and function.
Photography: Yves Müller, IG: @wristconspiracy for The Collectors Circle www.thecollectorscircle.com